Thursday, November 8, 2012

ON3O 2-6-0 Wheel bolt removal tool

Humm.. maybe you have been wondering how I get those little bolts loose that hold the rods to the wheels?

I went to the hardware store and bought a 2.5mm allen setscrew and super glued it into a piece of brass tubing...I cut my brass tubing to about 2-1/2"

Do a light grind on the end of the setscrew. (I do mean grind, as setscrews are hardened) . This is to remove most of the chamfer at the end of the setscrew, so you get a firm bite on the end of the wheel bolt...


That's the deal ......Vance

Why doesn't Bachmann include or sell this tool?

I remember years ago, that Mantua always included tiny wheel bolt wrenches with all their kits.

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Back to On3O 2-6-0 Painting Chassis and Wheels


Back to On30!


I usually start with a Bachmann 2-6-0 Hawthorne Village engine, as I can get them cheap on ebay (if I am careful). So hence I will need to do some painting... See Ebay item number 221150634583 for a Hawrthorne Village engine to mod and bash...

P.S. If you buy a Hawthorne Village loco to bash / repaint, choose one that has the bottom plastic cover plate molded in black. This is very slippery plastic and it is best to buy it in the color you want, as  it is unlikely you will ever to get paint to stick to it. Sandblasting the plastic almost... sorta... kinda... works.

But is best to skip the whole problem...

Below is my painting jig for the wheels. The cutout in the middle is to clear the drive gear...I clean the wheel assembly with ammonia and water 50-50 before I start masking and painting. Then I add a little masking tape on the fixture and around the wheel rim, a piece of #12 house wire insulation over the crank pins, and I'm set to paint.....









Looking for a good paint to shoot the wheels and chassis can be somewhat interesting. I have discovered that most flat and semi-flat acrylic paints tend to absorb the grease or oil that the chassis and side rods require. In my experience, when I use acrylic paints, there is a shiny seep of grease or oil in to the adjoining areas of the flat acrylic paints. (Looks awful)  So I have set my thoughts towards using rattle can enamel paint.

It would seem easy enough just stop at Home Depot or Lowes and pick up some nice hard Rust-oleum paint. After spending more than 45+ minutes looking through ridiculous designer colors that I would never buy for anything, I discovered that they have flat black and satin black.... Where is the semi-flat black? Oh here it is on line from Lowes... humm..., it's not in my store, but it can be ordered in quantity? What! 

If I drive to Granger in Spokane and take a 7 hour+ round trip, I can buy it for about $7.00 without paying $12.00 for shipping...

Rust-Oleum 12 Oz. Semi Flat Black Flat

Spray Paint

Item #: 89137 |  Model #: 1678830           ( Lowes P/N )


Sorry about that...but I get it... The industrial product lines are not shipped to rural America. Check it out,  if most, if not all of the semi- flat black paints only occur in the "Industrial Line". I know Krylon is that way too. I think it is all tied to the 6 pack that aerosol paint is being sold in. Rural America can't move 6 of the "speciality paints" in a year, so they don't buy any in that line. If the corporate enties would sell paint in 3 packs, rural America would likely stock it, as they could likely turn it in a year. 

As close as I can come at the moment is Rust-oleum Trim and Bumper paint 251574 Matte Black.  It's a little shiner than I would like....But it's good hard paint... Talking to the Rust-Oleum Corp customer service folks, the flatness goes like this....Flat black, Semi-Flat  black, Matte Black, Satin Black, Semi-Gloss Black and Gloss Black....

But I still haven't completely given up on the Rust-Oleum Semi-Flat Black.....more later

Vance

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

On30 thoughts

For the remainder of the week I will be devoting my time to finishing some HO ultra light weight 2'x4' modules. We have started a module club and I need to get caught up on the modules I promised to deliver.

This winter I hope to finish my 2x6' On30 modular layout. (Consisting of 3ea 2'x6' modules to start) Same design as the HO 2x6' modules I have been building, but these will have a 2" foam top and weignt less than 25lbs with the built in fold up legs.

I don't know why I didn't build my layouts on modules years ago?...

hummmm...I guess it's because I didn't have a planer, a chopsaw, a radial arm saw, a 10" table saw, a 14" band saw, and a floor stand 12" drill press and the like.

If you want to have a wonderful excuse to buy some great tools, build a house! I did...
I guess that without these tools, a 4x8' piece of 3/4" ply can be so appealing...

Maybe later we can talk about the tools one needs to do these On30 mods...

I'm looking forward to getting back to the Bachmann On30 2-6-0 mods soon...Vance



P.S. If any of you don't follow the Yahoo On30 group, there has been quite a discussion about Bachmann and their cracked gears and other quality control issues...

I myself have posted a few thoughts in agreement... but I will say it here...That us model railroaders generally have the patience and skills to fix mostly anything that the model railroad manufacturers can throw at us...so bring it on! ....not really...I have enough to fix for the moment... 

The cool thing is with the internet, we can rapidly disseminate the things we learn worldwide ...so we don't have to spend so much time re-inventing the wheel, or the sand dome, or the upgraded gearing...



Vance

Monday, October 22, 2012

Bachmann On30 2-6-0 Mogul C&S #22

Before we get too much further down the road with re-detailing and modifying, I suppose that I should give you a link to the Denver Public Library. It shows most of what you need for this project. Bachmann did a pretty good job creating C&S #22 and then went on painting it for nearly every railroad you can imagine...

Take a look at C&S #22

http://cdm16079.contentdm.oclc.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/42202/rec/29

You can really enlarge these photos and see lots of details.You can also look at simular C&S 2-6-0s and get some more ideas...

more later...

P.S. #21 is the closest and #9 (which still exists) is close but has a tapered boiler

Here is a short video of #9 www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3OkwflQ3SM

And here are a couple pictures of C&S #9 a close cousin of #22...




Sunday, October 21, 2012

After about 2 years... I am going to continue with my On30 Bachmann mogul saga... I hope to start with a brake cylinder mounting modification. It should look like the photo to the left.

Note that the outside edge of the cylinder sets slightly inside of the outer edge of the wheel, and the back of the cylinder sits flush against the chassis.

Looking at the model, it seems that we have some work to do...

So here below is the North Pole version of the Bachmann On30 Mogul. Because it's brightly colored, it's fairly easy to see what it is missing... Yeah...a lot....

I think the protruding tab on the bottom of the cab support can be removed, and even the water line can be replaced with a brass rod and reshaped more like the prototype.    

However...this is only a model. If it were exactly right, it would be mostly all steel and run on steam. But I think that we can get closer to the real deal... without too much trouble or money...








Look at how far the brake cylinders are from the chassis!  We are going to fix this!

Just in case you are wondering, I am going to wait to put things into a black color until after I am done modifying and photographing... so you can see what I am doing. The bright colors make the details stand out well.

Obviously, on the real C&S #22, the brake cylinders were not hanging out on the end of posts, but are firmly attached to the chassis.  So as this is a 30" guage loco rather than a 36" gauge loco as in the prototype, we need to do some creative engineering.

So if C&S modified a simular loco to 30" guage, how would they do it?   I would assume that they would have a new chassis built, re-guage the wheels, then adjust the running gear?

So if the difference between 30" gauge and 36" gauge is 6" that would be 3" of frame width per side or 1/16" in 1/48 scale per side. So engineers being what they are in both the real world and the scale world and a few things get forgotton in design (like on this model)...  maybe the brake cylinders need something like a 1/16" or .062" of  shim behind them. 

We just want the outside of the cylinder brake lever top to be closer to the outside of the rear wheel as in the top picture of #22.

I'll see what plastic I have and give it a shot.

I found my plastic--1/8" evergreen plastic tube.  I shortened the brake cylinder posts so that the cylinder fits as close as our spacer allows... without bottoming out in its mounting hole.  Now for pictures instead of a thousand words....note the notch in the side of the 1/8" tube section that allows it to fit around the rim of the cylinder...










Once this section of tube is super-glued to the cylinder, it can be painted and glued into the chassis. I am thinking about either notching the coverplate where the lower pin enters into it or cutting off the lower pin entirely... That way the cover plate is easily removable...( I like easily removable )

With the larger mounting area, the cylinder will be much more stable...

Just a note: I have noticed that when I add  the firebox sides that the top part of the spacer ring runs a foul of the fire box sides sitting completely level. So either the firebox side needs a small notch needs to be removed to clear the 1/8" spacer ring or the top of the spacer ring needs to be trimmed even with the cylinder mounting pin to clear the firebox side...

I still like this way much than better than the Bachmann way...

Hmmm... Made in China, rebuilt in the USA.

I'll finish up the other side and be back later. Cheers.

P.S. There is also a single pin brake cylinder version which is glued into the lower plate wheel retainer only. I don't have a lot of confidence in that arrangement and will endevor to make an overall better system for both variants as time permitts....

Other thoughts... Don't think that all On30 Bachmann 2-6-0 moguls are the same... There are differences in the chassis, brake cylinders, circuit boards and so forth as per the production run...but they are all pretty close....The Hawthorne Village variety seems to be exactly the same as the hobby store runs or train set runs just with different paint. (remove the paint with a 10+ hr soaking in 91% isopropyl alcohol )  Your mileage may vary...

I do think that the newer production runs are slightly better... more later...

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Cleaning up and Detailing the Stack

Editorial Comment:  In my years of model railroading, I remember how much I enjoyed the HO MDC Loco kits. I could remove the flash, correct the fit, and do a re-detail job as I was assembling the loco.

Hmmm... I have never asked any model railroad manufacturers to produce ready-to-run models. In fact, I don't know anyone who has. Starting with a ready-to-run model just makes re-detailing and customization a harder and definitely more lengthy process.

What do you think Bachmann would say if I told them I wanted to buy an ON30 loco from them in parts?... No paint, no glue, no instructions.... hmmm......I would say perfect!

All this being said...let's move forward solving the problems at hand in our less than perfect world...
Doesn't instant gratification take about 6 months? (Grin)

Mogul Smoke Stack:

But before I get too far, it was Glenn's idea to detail the 2-6-0 stack, I just put my own wing to it.

After his suggestion, I looked at the stack closely and thought...Love those casting lines!.... right where you can see them!...hmmm, the stack needed more Q.C. .......and Q.C. Means.... Quit Cussing!

The first thing I did was wiggle the stack to crack the superglue that is holding it to the boiler.

I would tell Bachmann to use screws! (among other things.....)


Warning:  In case you are ever tempted, and unless you are really lucky, superglue remover will dissolve the paint, the plastic, and the superglue. I think in that order.. My friend Glenn was successful removing some parts with a gel type superglue remover...but I attribute it to his skill and Irish heritage.

If the wiggling of the stack doesn't work, the shell needs to be removed. Then from inside the boiler, you need to cut through the superglue where the stack protrudes into the boiler to help facilitate its removal. Then back to more wiggles and gentle twists...

If all of the above doesn't work, get out your Dremel and gently grind off the stack base. Then get your O Scale Precision Scale catalog and order a new stack. I would suggest the bear trap cinder catcher and stack P/N PSC-7512 pg 278. Precision Scale's Phone number is 406-642-3901. If you order Precision Scale parts from Walthers, be careful!!! The Walther's parts numbers and descriptions and the Precision Scale parts numbers don't always match... They have some of the part descriptions and part numbers swapped around. Check out the air pumps....I called Precision Scale about this.... It might get fixed....

Another thought to try...I have soaked a Mogul Cab in 91% isopropyl alcohol to try its virtues on the superglue holding the windows in. After 36 hours the superglue softens enough that it gets a bit rubbery like hardened white Elmer's glue. Then gentle prying can tear it loose and some scraping reveals that the superglue is definitely softer and there is no plastic damage to windows or cab. (However, some glue remains to be scraped away.)

Based on this, a 48 hour boiler soak might loosen a stubborn stack. (Remove the boiler from chassis first and plan on repainting everything.)

Once the stack was finally in my hand, I took some suitable brass or copper K&S tubing and chucked it into my cordless drill. I then applied some masking tape to the tubing to make a snug fit with the inside of the stack.

Spin it up, apply fine file, then wet and dry sandpaper until well done. (400 then 600 grit.)

I then take an Atlas track saw and add parting lines to the sides of the base in line with the cast and parting lines in the front and back of the base (so it looks like a real stack and maybe we can add a bolt-on base).

I then take a .031" drill which is super-glued into an almost 3” piece of K&S 1/16" brass tube and then chuck it into a pin vice to drill holes in the stack base (from to top) for the nut bolt washer castings. I used the Kadee HO #439... Cut them to length and press fit into the holes (no glue needed).

To finish up, I repaint the stack with Tamiya Color Acrylic Paint Flat Aluminum XF-16, it matches the other silver nicely!

Put a little acrylic paint on the end of the stack where it goes into the boiler. That should hold it in place and still allow for safe removal....

"Never put anything together so well... that it can't be taken apart..." Vance

As I have looked at the C&S #22 stack close-up, I wonder if we can get a bit closer? See below...




I wonder if a little dremel work will yield some good results...

I'll experiment and get back soon...

Friday, October 15, 2010

Bachmann On30 Mogul Info

On30 Mogul Notes:

The Bachmann 2-6-0 mogul is a great little On30 engine. Its can be procured cheaply on ebay, runs well, and can be bashed and modified in many ways.

It appears to be prototyped after Colorado and Southern #21 and  #22 as originally produced with C&S head light and the large between the domes top mounted air tank. ( Like #22 in photo below) The other edition (photo above) with a more generic headlight and no top mounted air tank has been made to pass for a number of narrow gauge roads including Denver and Rio Grande.


As I describe the steps, I will try not to to be vague or general, as Montana directions tend to be. (Turn left at the old Johnson place.... but Johnson's haven't lived there for 25 years!)


First my disclaimer....These tips and procedures have worked for me, and if you have similar skills and tools they should work for you too.

However...My life experience tells me that no amount of instructions will ever prevent an impatient, unskilled, or clumsy individual from messing things up. So if you don't have experience working on small delicate things and you can't read and apply.....don't try this at home!

Sorry but..............“Nothing offends better than the truth”


Deficiencies:  As any modern mass produced item, the assembly process lacks time and care. The hidden snaps and catches are frustrating at best, and the overuse of superglue and lack of screws add to the dilemma. It wasn't designed to be taken apart and worked on, but with some effort we can get around all that.

Plastic:  As far as I can tell, most of the body plastic is not composed of styrene and does not respond to Testor's styrene glue. I have had success gluing the piping with Ace hardware general purpose plumbing glue for CPVC, PVC, and ABS plastics.

Paint:  The thick paint can be gently stripped with 91% isopropyl alcohol with no damage to the plastic whatsoever. Perfect!

The super glue:  The super glue my model was glued with was thick and brittle...Brittle is the good part. Some scraping, and a few cuts in the glue joint with an X-acto number #11 blade and some pushing, pulling, prying, twisting, and bending, and the glue cracks and comes apart.

Hand rail stanchions:  The hand rail stanchions are metal and need to be stripped and de-burred. I place a hot soldering iron at the joint between the handrail wire and the stanchion and pull as it heats up. It appears that the super glue melts before the surrounding plastic and pops out with no damage to the shell whatsoever...cool beans....I then strip the metal stanchion in lacquer thinner and clean it up with an X-acto knife and a file and a bit of 400 grit sandpaper. I run a clearance drill through the holes and I am ready to re-attach the stanchions. (Again with super glue, SuperJet red.)

Chassis:  The axles are metal and insulated from the metal wheels by plastic bushings. These bushings tend to protrude from the outside of the wheels in a random and ugly way and can be trimmed flush with an X-acto knife.

Pilot coupler lifters:  On my model the coupler lifters seemed to be only pressed in. They popped loose with a popsicle stick It appeared that there was a clear coating over the gold color that I removed with 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper and fine steel wool. I then used Hobby Black to bring it to a dark patina. If I do it again, I will start with paint stripper!

Firebox sides:  Thin plastic, the rivets aren't the same on both sides. Best to make brass etchings to replace them. (I've made the etch pattern, just need to etch.)

More in the next post!